A magnificent and exceedingly rare 1950s Swiss-made triple date chronograph, carrying a fascinating heritage tailored for discerning collectors. The dial is signed by Hertig, a brand established by Charles Hertig, a master watchmaker active in Portugal from the 1930s to the 1950s. Renowned for combining premium Swiss engineering with distinct design preferences for the Portuguese market, Hertig frequently collaborated with top-tier Swiss manufacturers like Certina to deliver high-grade timepieces. This exceptional model is powered by the legendary in-house Valjoux 72C column-wheel caliber—the exact historical movement utilized by Rolex in their iconic vintage "Jean-Claude Killy" references. It features a stunning three-register dial with a blue pointer date, red peripheral calendar tracks, and Portuguese day-month apertures, all housed in a robust solid stainless steel case.
In short, an incredibly rare 1950s Hertig triple date chronograph powered by the legendary Valjoux 72C column-wheel movement. A true holy grail of mid-century Swiss horology with a captivating Anglo-Portuguese historical connection.
Case:
o In stainless steel serial 13638, scratches and marks all over
o Fine condition with strong geometry, marked for portuguese market
o 35.5mm without crown / 43mm lug to lug / 13mm thickness / 18mm lug width
Movement:
o Mechanical chronograph valjoux 72c (day and month in portuguese) - working well, All functions work (date of last service unknown)
Quick Guide & Handling Notes: How the Calendar Functions
The Valjoux 72C integrates a fully mechanical manual-wind chronograph with a complete calendar. Due to its delicate and highly complex historical engineering, please follow these operational guidelines:
Main Operations: The crown winds the movement and sets the time. The day of the week and month change automatically at midnight alongside the central blue pointer date hand.
Quick-Set Adjusters (Left Case Pushers): The 10 o'clock pusher advances the month and date hand simultaneously; the 8 o'clock pusher advances the day of the week independently.
Midnight Danger Zone: Never use the quick-set pushers while the watch hands are between 8:00 PM and 2:00 AM, as the automatic midnight transition is already engaged.
The 12-O'Clock Alignment Rule: Never press the 10 o'clock month/date pusher when the hour and minute hands are aligned or overlapping near 12 o'clock. This can jam the internal levers against the gear train and damage the gear teeth. Always move the time hands to a safe, neutral position (like 6:30) before adjusting.
Dial:
o Untouched original in good condition, with evident signs of aging
Bracelet Material:
o New 18mm burgundy leather with generic chromed buckle
Condition / conclusion:
A very rare piece, you can search the entire internet to find one like it.
please see photos as they are part of the description.
No box or papers, no water proof test, sold as is, any question feel free for ask...
Keep in mind that it is a vintage watch, it is normal to be 1/2 minute early or late
wrist-treasure
