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A magnificent and exceedingly rare 1950s Swiss-made triple date chronograph, carrying a fascinating heritage tailored for discerning collectors.
The dial is signed by Hertig, a brand associated with Charles Hertig, a watchmaker active in Portugal during the mid-20th century. Hertig is known for its connections with Swiss watchmaking, including Certina.
This exceptional model is powered by the legendary Valjoux 72C column-wheel caliber, the same movement family used by Rolex in their iconic vintage "Jean-Claude Killy" references.
It features a stunning three-register dial with a blue pointer date, red peripheral calendar tracks, and Portuguese day-month apertures, all housed in a solid stainless steel case.
In short, an incredibly rare 1950s Hertig triple date chronograph powered by the legendary Valjoux 72C. A remarkable piece of mid-century Swiss horology with a fascinating Portuguese connection.
Case: Solid stainless steel case, serial 13638, with scratches and age-related marks. Good vintage condition with strong case geometry, believed to be unpolished. 35.5mm without crown / 43mm lug to lug / 13mm thickness / 18mm lug width.
Movement: Mechanical hand-wound Valjoux 72C chronograph (day and month in Portuguese). Movement running well; chronograph and all calendar functions operational. The chronograph seconds hand resets approximately 2 seconds past the 12 o'clock position. This minor misalignment does not affect its operation. Date of last service unknown. Quick Guide & Handling Notes: How the Calendar Functions The Valjoux 72C combines a manual-wind chronograph with a sophisticated triple calendar mechanism. Due to its delicate vintage construction, careful handling is essential.
Main Operations: The crown winds the movement and sets the time. The day of the week and central blue date hand advance automatically around midnight. The month is corrected manually when necessary.
Quick-Set Adjusters (Left Case Pushers): 8 o'clock pusher: Independently advances the central blue date hand (1–31). 10 o'clock pusher: Independently advances the month indication. Day of the week: No quick-set function on this particular example. The day must be adjusted by advancing the hands forward through successive 24-hour cycles using the crown.
Important — Calendar Safety: Never operate the calendar pushers between 8:00 PM and 2:00 AM, when the automatic calendar-change mechanism may be engaged.
Before using the pushers, position the hands at approximately 6:30 AM. When adjusting the weekday, advance the hands forward through midnight until the correct day is displayed, then correct the date and month as necessary.
Never force the pushers or repeatedly move the hands backwards and forwards around midnight.
Dial: Beautiful original-style dial with attractive age-related patina and visible signs of aging. Appears period-correct; any possible professional restoration in its past cannot be definitively excluded.
Bracelet Material: New 18mm burgundy leather strap with generic chromed buckle.
Condition / Conclusion: An exceptionally rare and collectible piece. Finding another Hertig triple calendar chronograph in this configuration is extremely difficult.
Please see all photographs, as they form part of the description. No box or papers. Not water-resistance tested. Vintage mechanical timekeeping variations should be expected. Any questions, please feel free to ask.
